As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in by Daniel Delis Hill

By Daniel Delis Hill

This lavishly illustrated chronicle of yankee women’s models examines relationships among the mass-market ready-to-wear undefined, style journalism, and model ads. in the course of the 20th century, those industries fueled one another’s successes through opting for an ever-widening customer type and fanning the need to be trendy. Daniel Hill employs a wealth of basic resource fabric to record not just this symbiosis but additionally an evolution in American style, society, and tradition, as evidenced by way of greater than 600 model advertisements that seemed fashionable from the magazine’s debut in 1893 throughout the subsequent ten many years. those American vignettes record greater than the appearance and models in their eras; they display dramatic adjustments in women’s roles and self-image—witness the metamorphosis from alabaster Victorian homemaker to painted flapper in precisely a iteration, from conformist fifties mother to miniskirt-clad iconoclast just a decade later. during this complete research, Hill bargains a fathomless trove for type historians and pop-culturists, a useful source for college kids and execs in ads, advertising, and enterprise historical past, and a distinct segment standpoint on cultural affects for women’s stories.

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Created a leap in mass consumption. In addition, as the editors of Vogue happily discovered, there was no interruption in the news of fashion direction from Paris after all. S. ready-to-wear makers had responded to the stylistic changes introduced by the French just a few months earlier. ) By 1917, America could no longer enjoy the luxury of neutrality in the global conflict. S. merchant ships by German submarines accelerated, and Allied propaganda against “Hunnish” barbarism in Belgium and France abounded in American media.

In the same edition of the Journal, Lou Eleanor Colby wrote that readers should use “Dame Nature” as a guide to color choices in fashion. “We shall find that the softer grayish colors or the rich, dark tones should form the main portion of our [ensembles], and that the Figure 2-10. Although the slender, more youthful silhouette and shorter hemlines were adopted by American ready-to-wear manufacturers and retailers, Edwardian styling and embellishments remained popular into the 1910s. Franklin Simon ad 1909, Stern Brothers ad 1910.

15 Whatever the source of the word, the meaning was universally understood. The flapper style—both in look and demeanor—reflected the exuberant, fast pace of modern America, with its mass production, mass marketing, and mass consumption. Seventh Avenue American fashion on a mass scale came into its own during the 1920s. But the evolution had been slow and painful. During the nineteenth century, ready-to-wear manufacturers frequently opened and closed shops with uninhibited rapidity. Often they had just enough capital for a single season’s production line.

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